Windows, Doors, and Passive Solar Heating
I had to do something with the ends of the strawbales at the sides of the windows and doors.
I had to do something with the ends of the strawbales at the sides of the windows and doors. So I screwed one edge of a strip of expanded metal lathe to the window buck and attached the other side, top, and bottom of the lathe to the strawbales with six inch nails and Roberta Pins. (A Roberta pin is an 18" piece of very thick wire cut from a role and bent into the shape of a Bobbie pin. It can be used to attach metal lathe to bales when 6" nails don't provide a firm enough anchor). As I attached the lathe to the window buck and bales (going from bottom to top) I stuffed loose straw behind the bales using a short piece of 2"x4" to pack it as tight as possible. Later the lathe was stuccoed and then I plastered over it when I mud plastered the rest of the bale walls. The result was a nicely curving surface at the sides of the windows and doors.
My windows are double pane. All except the shower window (also double pane but a fiberglass frame) and the windows in the single doors have a wood frame which is covered by metal on the outside for protection from the elements. The tape is still on this window to protect it from the clear, no-VOC wood finish I applied as a preservative. The wood is Douglas Fir.
y windows are double pane. All except the shower window (also double pane but a fiberglass frame) and the windows in the single doors have a wood frame which is covered by metal on the outside for protection from the elements. The tape is still on this window to protect it from the clear wood finish I applied as a preservative. The wood is Douglas Fir.
y windows are double pane. All except the shower window (also double pane but a fiberglass frame) and the windows in the single doors have a wood frame which is covered by metal on the outside for protection from the elements. The tape is still on these window to protect them from the clear, no-VOC wood finish I applied as a preservative. The wood is Douglas Fir.
Expanding Foam Between Window and Window Buck
During a visit my friend Jeff offered to inject expanding foam in the gaps between the window bucks and window frames for insulation. Jeff works for a company that makes prefab log cabins in Montana.
Even though I laid the strawbales on their edges instead of flat the walls were still very thick and the inside window sills were very wide. Note the hinge at the far right between the window and the window frame. This a venting picture window by Marvin (my only window from that high-end company) meaning that it can open slightly all the way around. A thick mesh covers the openings which don't let much air in but they allow a place for inside air to flow out thus aiding in circulation.
North Window Ready For Concrete
Form board in place and copper tubing to separate stone and concrete window sill from future earthen plaster. The form board is held in place with rebar pounded into the strawbale wall. Stones placed in advance were a rough approximation of the final stone arrangement. Note the gap between the window and the window frame. This a venting picture window by Marvin (my only window from that high-end company) meaning that it can open slightly all the way around. A thick mesh covers the openings which don't let much air in but they allow a place for inside air to flow out thus aiding in circulation.
Curt Campbell also suggested that I attach metal lathe inside the form board to create texture on the wall side of the concrete to hold plaster.
Screws to Anchor Copper Pipe Window Sill Border #1
My second consultant, Curt Campbell, suggested copper tubing as a visual separation between the stone/concrete window sill and the earthen plaster on the inside of the walls. Screws placed part way into the tubing embed in the concrete and anchor the tubing in place.
Screws to Anchor Copper Pipe Window Sill Borde2
My second consultant, Curt Campbell, suggested copper tubing as a visual separation between the stone/concrete window sill and the earthen plaster on the inside of the walls. Screws placed part way into the tubing embed in the concrete and anchor the tubing in place.
Ready to Concrete Window Sill Rocks
I arranged rocks inside the form in advance. But after I mixed the concrete it was a continual judgement call as I placed them permanently and set them in concrete - like a 3D jigsaw puzzle with no single solution and no going back. I had to have many more rocks available than I actually used.
One of the form boards removed at the sill of the 8' window. Note the copper tubing held in place by screws embedded in the concrete, and the rough, plaster-holding imprint left by the expanded metal lath attached to the inside of the form board.
Screws to Anchor Copper Pipe Window Sill Border #3
My second consultant, Curt Campbell, suggested copper tubing as a visual separation between the stone/concrete window sill and the earthen plaster on the inside of the walls. Screws placed part way into the tubing embed in the concrete and anchor the tubing in place. Also note the rough, plaster-holding imprint left by the expanded metal lath attached to the inside of the form board.
Screws to Anchor Copper Pipe Window Sill Border
y second consultant, Curt Campbell, suggested copper tubing as a visual separation between the stone/concrete window sill and the earthen plaster on the inside of the walls. Screws placed part way into the tubing embed in the concrete and anchor the tubing in place. Also note the rough, plaster-holding imprint left by the expanded metal lath attached to the inside of the form board.
(Local) Stone and concrete window seat with copper tubing border between the stone/concrete and the future earthen plaster. Also note the rough, plaster-holding imprint left by the expanded metal lath attached to the inside of the form board.
Local stone held in place with concrete. Note copper pipe to form a transition between the stone and the future earthen plaster.
Local stone held in place with concrete. Note copper pipe to form a transition between the stone and the future earthen plaster.
West Stone/Concrete Window Seat
Local stone held in place with concrete. Note copper pipe to form a transition between the stone and the future earthen plaster.
I was careful to put most of the windows on the south side to allow for passive solar heating. Most winters I never have to turn on the heat.
8' South Side Window Above Awning Windows
I was careful to put most of the windows on the south side to allow for passive solar heating. Most winters I never have to turn on the heat.
Local stone held in place with concrete. Note copper pipe to form a transition between the stone and the future earthen plaster. This is the only window on the north side and receives a small amount of direct sunlight only very early in the morning during June. This is a high end metal clad wood window made by Marvin, the only company at the time that made this kind of venting picture window which can be pushed out a few inches from the frame to allow air to flow out. The gap is covered with mesh.
North Window With Spider Web #1
Local stone held in place with concrete. Note copper pipe to form a transition between the stone and the earthen plaster. This is the only window on the north side and receives a small amount of direct sunlight only very early in the morning during June. This is a high end metal clad wood window made by Marvin, the only company at the time that made this kind of venting picture window which can be pushed out a few inches from the frame to allow air to flow out. The gap is covered with mesh. Clay art by Steve Aitchison.
North Window With Spider Web #2
Local stone held in place with concrete. Note copper pipe to form a transition between the stone and the future earthen plaster. This is the only window on the north side and receives a small amount of direct sunlight only very early in the morning during June. This is a high end metal clad wood window made by Marvin, the only company at the time that made this kind of venting picture window which can be pushed out a few inches from the frame to allow air to flow out. The gap is covered with mesh. Clay art by Steve Aitchison.
